Mummelsee Lake
High in the northern Black Forest, at 1,036 meters above sea level, the Mummelsee is Germany’s most legend-soaked mountain lake. This small glacial cirque lake sits directly beside the B500 (the famous Schwarzwaldhochstraße, or Black Forest High Road), near the Hornisgrinde massif, the highest peak in the northern Black Forest. Despite its modest size — barely 5 hectares and a maximum depth of around 17 meters — the Mummelsee has captivated German imagination for centuries, inspiring poems, fairy tales, and a persistent folklore of water sprites, a submerged underwater kingdom, and a vengeful lake king.
Geologically, the lake formed during the last Ice Age when glacial erosion carved a rocky basin later filled by meltwater and rain. Ringed by dense spruce forest and granite boulders, it has a dark, almost bottomless appearance that fueled superstition long before science explained its origins. Eduard Mörike’s famous 1828 poem “Der Feuerreiter” and his ballad about the Mummelsee cemented the lake’s reputation as a place where nymphs (the “Mummel” water spirits) dwell, and locals still tell of a king who once rose from the depths to warn villagers, only to disappear again beneath the surface, cursing anyone who mocked him.
Highlights & What to See
- The lake itself — a short, flat 15-20 minute walking loop circles the entire shoreline, offering photogenic views through the trees and across the dark water
- Rowing boats for rent in summer, letting visitors drift over the legendary depths
- The Berghotel Mummelsee, a lakeside inn with a restaurant terrace serving Black Forest classics and cake
- A small souvenir and snack kiosk area near the parking lot, popular with road-trippers along the Schwarzwaldhochstraße
- Hiking trail connections up to the Hornisgrinde summit (about 1 hour uphill) with its historic water tower and panoramic views stretching to the Rhine Valley and, on clear days, the Vosges Mountains in France
- Interpretive signs recounting the various Mummelsee legends collected over the 19th century
Practical Visitor Information
The Mummelsee itself is a free, open natural site accessible year-round from dawn until dusk, though snow and ice can make the surrounding trails hazardous in winter. There is no admission fee to view or walk around the lake.
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Entry to lake area | Free |
| Parking (Schwarzwaldhochstraße lot) | Approx. €3-5 per day, cash or card at machine |
| Boat rental (summer season) | Approx. €6-10 per 20-30 minutes |
| Berghotel Mummelsee restaurant | Mains from around €12-22 |
| Opening hours (lake trail) | Accessible daily, sunrise to sunset |
How to Get There
The Mummelsee lies directly on the B500 Schwarzwaldhochstraße between Seebach and Ruhestein, making it easiest to reach by car. From Baden-Baden, it’s roughly a 40-minute drive (about 30 km) through winding forest roads — a scenic route in itself. From Freudenstadt, allow around 35-40 minutes.
Public transport options exist but require planning: seasonal buses (Line 7150, the “Schwarzwaldhochstraßen-Express”) run from Achern and Baden-Baden train stations during peak season (roughly May to October), stopping directly at Mummelsee. Check current schedules via the VSB (Verkehrsverbund Karlsruhe/Ortenau) or Deutsche Bahn app before travel, as frequency drops sharply outside summer months. Nearest DB regional train stations are Achern and Appenweier, from which connecting buses run toward the high road.
Best Time to Visit
Late spring through early autumn (May to October) offers the best combination of accessible roads, open boat rentals, and pleasant hiking weather. Early morning visits (before 10 am) are strongly recommended, since the Mummelsee is one of the most popular motorcycle and car touring stops on the Schwarzwaldhochstraße and parking fills quickly on weekends and holidays. Autumn brings vivid foliage reflections on the lake surface, while winter transforms the area into a quiet, snow-draped scene — though the boat rentals and some facilities close, and icy roads demand caution.
Insider Tips
- Visit on a weekday morning to avoid the tour buses and motorcycle convoys that crowd the site midday in summer
- Combine your visit with the Hornisgrinde summit hike for the region’s best panoramic views — bring sturdy shoes even though the lake loop itself is easy
- Legend has it that throwing a coin or speaking disrespectfully near the lake angers the water spirits — locals still half-jokingly warn visitors to stay polite at the shoreline
- The lakeside restaurant gets busy at lunch; consider a mid-afternoon coffee and cake stop instead
- Photography is best in the late afternoon when sunlight filters through the surrounding spruce canopy onto the water
Nearby Excursions
- Allerheiligen Waterfalls and monastery ruins, roughly 20 minutes north
- Ruhestein and the Black Forest National Park visitor center, about 15 minutes south, with excellent exhibits on regional ecology
- Baden-Baden’s thermal spas and Belle Époque casino, an easy 40-minute drive
- Triberg Waterfalls, Germany’s highest, about an hour’s drive south
- The Wildsee and Schliffkopf viewpoint, further stops along the scenic Schwarzwaldhochstraße
Whether you come for the folklore, the forest air, or the drive itself, the Mummelsee remains one of the Black Forest’s most enduring stops — a small lake that has loomed disproportionately large in German legend for nearly two centuries.
💡 Visitor Tips & Best Experience
Visit on weekday mornings to avoid tour groups; combine with Hornisgrinde summit hike; best photography light in late afternoon.
🚆 How to Get There & Public Transit
By car via B500 Schwarzwaldhochstraße; seasonal bus line 7150 from Achern/Baden-Baden train stations (May-October)